Dr. Steven Alvarez, a distinguished member of the Oldways Latin American Heritage Program Advisory Board, is a leading scholar in literacy studies and bilingual education. He currently serves as the Assistant Chair of the English Department at St. John’s University. Dr. Alvarez holds a Ph.D. from The Graduate Center of the City University of New York, with a focus on the literacy and language practices of Mexican immigrant communities. His acclaimed course “Taco Literacy” explores the transnational foodways of Mexican immigrants in the United States. In addition to his academic work, Dr. Alvarez is an accomplished author, known for titles such as Brokering Tareas and the novel in verse The Codex Mojaodicus. This interview is part of our celebration of Hispanic Heritage Month, recognizing Dr. Alvarez’s significant contributions to the understanding of Mexican-American culture. This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Could you tell us about your family’s heritage and what the term “Latin American Heritage Foods” means to you?
My family is of Mexican descent. I was born in a small town in Arizona called Safford, while my mother was born in Cananea, Sonora, Mexico. She migrated to the border town of Bisbee, Arizona, at the age of five. My father was also born in Bisbee; he was second generation with roots from Sinaloa. To answer your question,to me, “Latin American” is a pan-ethnic term that encompasses people from Mexico to South America, unified by a shared ancestry through Spanish colonization. This heritage connects us in the United States but also offers a transnational perspective. Our food is a vital part of this identity, symbolizing our history and movement. The dishes we create, the traditions we uphold, and the culture we celebrate are all deeply rooted in our culinary heritage.
What inspired you to create the “Taco Literacy” course, and how has it evolved since its inception?
The idea for “Taco Literacy” was born from a desire to explore the regional profiles of Mexican cuisine, and to understand how migration within Mexico has shaped its culinary practices. The course focuses on the taco, a dish that has traveled and transformed as it moved northward into the United States. It also highlights the culinary creativity of chefs and artists who connect the sacred and indigenous aspects of the taco to contemporary culture. Since its inception, the course has evolved to include these broader discussions, examining how food adapts and evolves with migration and cultural exchange.
Can you elaborate on how “Taco Literacy” bridges the gap between food studies, cultural studies, and writing?
Offered through the English Department, and sometimes as part of Cultural Studies, the course attracts students from various backgrounds, including creative writing. Food writing can be a challenging entry point for writers because it requires not only the description of flavors but also the connection of those flavors to cultural narratives. It’s been fascinating to see students develop as food writers, starting with familiar dishes like queso from Qdoba, and moving on to complex topics like mole. The course encourages students to use social media and blogging platforms like Instagram and WordPress to publish their work, bridging traditional academic writing with modern media practices.
The course addresses issues like cultural appropriation and migrant labor. How do you encourage students to critically engage with these topics through their writing?
Students today are very attuned to the nuances of cultural appropriation, especially when it comes to cooking food outside of one’s cultural background. I challenge them to explore these topics in various ways, such as examining the disconnection between fast food and cultural authenticity or analyzing how big corporations may exploit cultural symbols. Through writing assignments and class discussions, students are empowered to research and articulate their findings, often challenging preconceived notions of authenticity in food.
How do digital platforms and social media, enhance the study of cultural foods?
Using platforms like Instagram and WordPress allows students to engage with food writing in a practical, real-world context. They connect their academic work to broader media practices, learning how to write for digital audiences. For example, one student interviewed her mother, who had won an award for a famous mole recipe featured in a newspaper article. Sharing these stories on social media not only amplifies their voices but also preserves cultural traditions in a modern format.
Can you share some insights into the role of fieldwork in the course and how it helps students connect with the material on a deeper level?
Fieldwork is an essential component of “Taco Literacy.” It allows students to immerse themselves in the material, whether by interviewing home cooks or visiting traditional grocery stores. These experiences help them connect academic theories to real-world practices. For instance, one student from Kentucky wrote a compelling essay about his experience shopping at a Mexican grocery store, where locals taught him how to use traditional ingredients. This hands-on approach deepens their understanding of foodways and cultural identity.
What are your plans for Hispanic Heritage Month?
I plan to attend the Mexican Independence Parade in New York on September 15th. It’s a powerful reminder of the large and vibrant Mexican community in New York City. Celebrating our heritage in such a public and communal way is incredibly important.
Are there any new projects in the works?
I just finished my fourth book of poetry. My poetry is experimental and eclectic; my first book won a national award and was written a decade ago. My latest project, Tonalamatl, published by Calamari Press, is a book of poems that delves into Mexican-American folklore, dream journals, and the concept of border time. It’s an experimental exploration of identity and cultural memory.
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