A nice sea breeze and the shade from this unusual Pantelleria onion tree kept us from turning delirious in the blistering midday heat, as we had a splendid leisurely lunch at L’Isola nell’Isola focused on seafood, salads and crisp, icy fruit.  We also had a very cold Passito di Pantelleria wine from Ben Rye, its color golden amber, its nose citrus, with a bit of jam in its taste.  From there we drove down to and around the Lago di Venere, a stunning pure turquoise-colored circular lake surrounded by white sand beaches, the remains of a side vent of the islands main volcano.  The Caribbean in the Med!  — Dun

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